184 Audemars Piguet A very attractive, rare and sporty, ‘B-Series’ wristwatch in stainless steel, with tropical dial, certificate of origin and presentation box.

Estimate: € 50,000 –⁠ 100,000

Introduced in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak revolutionized watchmaking as the first luxury sports watch crafted entirely from stainless steel with an integrated bracelet. Conceived in a single night to meet an urgent demand for a groundbreaking steel timepiece, it also held the distinction of being the most expensive stainless steel watch of its time. The brand turned to renowned designer Gérald Genta, who crafted a masterfully engineered monobloc case inspired by maritime aesthetics. His design featured an octagonal bezel, fastened with eight hexagonal white-gold screws, along with a distinctive tapisserie pattern on the dial. Due to its 39 mm case, considered oversized compared to the typical gentlemen’s dress watches of the era, which ranged from 33 to 35 mm, it earned the nickname “Jumbo” among collectors. The Royal Oak reference 5402 was produced in four distinct batches; A, B, C, and D, each featuring subtle design variations that set them apart. The present “B series” Royal Oak is an exceptionally rare and highly coveted example, preserved in excellent overall condition. The dial, correctly showcasing the AP logo at six o’clock, a detail correctly found on both A and B series models, has acquired a uniform and extremely charming tropicalization. A distinction that most likely occurred over the course of many years, has shifted the original and standard blue dial to an even terracotta brown. Similarly, the tritium hour markers have also acquired a deep ivory, cappuccino-like hue. The present Royal Oak, beautifully preserved with strong bevels and crisp case back engravings, is further accompanied by its original Certificate of Authenticity, confirming the original sale date on March 25th, 1976. An icon within the world of horology, its history as the first modern luxury sports watch, along with its timeless aesthetic, makes it the definitive choice for the connoisseur of fine and rare timepieces.