For collectors of vintage timepieces, few names resonate with the same enduring reverence as Patek Philippe. The Genevan watchmaker has long been regarded as the gold standard in horology; or perhaps more fittingly as we’re discussing today, the platinum standard! From technical innovation to artistic refinement, Patek Philippe has shaped the narrative of high watchmaking for over 180 years.
While Patek’s legendary creations span a wide range of styles and complications, there is something particularly compelling about their platinum watches. Often made in small numbers and reserved for the most exclusive clients, platinum references have an undeniable air of rarity and prestige. As the most precious of precious metals, platinum has always stood at the pinnacle of Patek’s metal hierarchy; prized for its weight, density, and discreet elegance.
In our upcoming Exclusive Timepieces sale in Monaco, Monaco Legend Group is proud to present four exceptional and extremely rare Patek Philippe watches in platinum. Each one is a masterwork of design, craft, and historical significance.
The reference 1593, known among Italian collectors as the “Tegola” or Hour Glass, is one of the most elegant rectangular wristwatches ever produced by Patek Philippe. The present example, manufactured in 1947 and sold in 1948, features a platinum case and a remarkable dial set with baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds. It’s powered by the iconic calibre 9-90 and comes with an Extract from the Archives. With its signature sloping crystal, distinctive case lines and use of precious stones, this is a refined fusion of high horology and high jewellery — a timepiece that embodies the golden age of Patek Philippe’s dress watch design.
This understated beauty was introduced in 1958 and produced only until the early 1960s, making it one of the rarest platinum Calatravas ever made. Fewer than 200 examples were created, and today, fewer than 10 are known to the market. The present watch is accompanied by its original certificate of origin and features a 32mm platinum case with a delicately diamond-set bezel, ideal for collectors of refined, mid-century elegance. Its proportions make it equally wearable by collectors of any gender, and the movement, the calibre 23-300, is among Patek’s finest manually wound engines of the era.
Few vintage Patek Philippe watches carry such a distinctive design language as the reference 2554, affectionately nicknamed the “Manta Ray.” Designed under the influence of Gilbert Albert, this dramatic case shape echoes the movement of a manta’s wings in water. The platinum case on this example is set with 22 tapering baguette diamonds — a highly unusual configuration that places this piece among the most collectible Pateks of the period. Its curved crystal, satin silver dial, and excellent preservation make it one of the standout lots in the sale. With only around 50 examples ever made in platinum, and fewer than 10 believed to still exist, this 1963 piece represents an important precursor to the modern “10-Day” reference 5100.
Then, there is the pièce de resistance; an extraordinary platinum Patek Philippe wristwatch from 1939, offered for the first time directly from the family of the original owner. This oversized, stepped rectangular watch was made during one of the most tumultuous moments in history, yet stands today as a serene and timeless masterpiece. The platinum case is in untouched condition, bearing the signature of the famed case maker Baumgartner, while the sector dial is highlighted with diamond indexes, an extremely rare combination, particularly for a piece of this era.
Perhaps the most remarkable detail is the bracelet, a full platinum mesh bracelet by Gay Frères, specially commissioned for this watch. Ultra-fine, perfectly integrated and technically impressive, it is a work of art in itself.
Says Monaco Legend Group Chairman, Davide Parmeginai:“Since the early 1900s, platinum has always been the most exclusive metal in watchmaking—used for the rarest and most refined creations, from Cartier’s early Tanks to Patek Philippe’s most limited pieces. Platinum is not only precious, but incredibly difficult to work with, making it a choice reserved for only the most special commissions.
The watch we are offering, with its curved platinum case, untouched sector dial, and diamond indexes, is a unique piece made to a client’s exact specifications—as confirmed by the Extract from the Archives. It’s not just rare, it’s singular. Even among shaped watches from the 1930s, its proportions, stepped sides, and original details set it apart.
What makes it even more extraordinary is the full platinum Gay Frères mesh bracelet, made specifically for this watch. To find a piece like this, preserved in a single family since the 1960s and still with its original box, is truly remarkable. This is a once-in-a-lifetime watch.”
This watch is more than just a beautiful example of 20th-century watchmaking; it is a historic artifact, one that reflects the craftsmanship, discretion, and personalisation that define the world’s most revered watchmaker.
Whether you are drawn to the sculptural form of the Manta Ray, the jewelled precision of the Hour Glass, or the quiet nobility of the 1939 masterpiece, these four watches represent the very finest of what Patek Philippe, and platinum, has to offer.
