175 Rolex Precious and Esteemed, Submariner, Automatic Wristwatch in Steel, With Black Mat Dial and Red Signature, Reference 1680

Estimate: €15,000 –⁠ 30,000

Model: Submariner
Reference: 1680
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Bracelet Material: Stainless Steel
Year: 1972
Movement: Automatic
Caliber: 1570
Case N°: 3 181 234
Dimensions: 40 mm
Signed: Dial, movement and case

The Submariner is among the most iconic—if not the most iconic—timepieces Rolex has ever produced and beyond any doubt one of Rolex’s most coveted models in the history of horology. The 1680 was the first Submariner equipped with a date function, marking the completion of the transition of the Submariner line from specialist tool watch to mass-market fashion accessories. A sporty yet ultra-chic piece for every day wearing, collectors will make a distinction between a reference 1680 with red writing on the dial and a reference 1680 with all-white writing. Unlike the later-era examples of the reference 1680 Submariner that received mat black dials with all-white text, early production of the reference 1680 had dials that featured the Submariner name printed in red. The reference 1680 Red Submariner is certainly one of the most easily recognizable vintage references and is frequently considered an entry point into serious vintage Rolex collecting. This lot is one of those Red Submariner that you can’t miss: its stainless steel case is nice and well preserved with no evident signs of wearing: the stainless steel Oyster bracelet is fresh with the original Rolex clasp while the graduated black bezel maintains its vivid colors. The dial is a true gem for the sought after red signature and featuring beautiful clean white indexes that form a perfect circumference, the Mercedes hands in the same way are perfectly conserved, gaining a considerable charm.