138 Patek Philippe Extremely Rare and Attractive, Perpetual Calendar Moon Phases, Chronograph Wristwatch, in Yellow Gold, Black Diamond-set Dial and Bezel, With Box, Original Certificate, Reference 3990J

Estimate: €200,000 –⁠ 400,000

Model: Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Reference: 3990J
Case Material: Yellow Gold
Bracelet Material: Leather Strap
Year: 2000's
Movement: Manual
Caliber: 27–70
Case N°: 4 072 859
Movement N°: 3046033
Dimensions: 36 mm
Signed: Dial, Case and Movement
Accessories: Certificate of Origin, Box and Service

Dating back for more than 150 years, chronographs have played a vital role in Patek Philippe’s horological virtuosity. But the model that made Patek Philippe mostly famous is certainly the chronograph family with perpetual calendar and moon phases. The first to introduce this combination of functions and constantly in production until the present day, Patek Philippe exhibits a strong lineage of perpetual calendar chronograph watches: this dynasty was born in 1941 with the legendary 1518 replaced only a few years later by the equally iconic 2499 (in 1950). In 1986, with a newly enhanced caliber CH 27–70, the Ref. 3970 was introduced with a perpetual calendar and a chronograph, becoming an instant icon housing arguably the world’s most beautiful chronograph movement. Nine years later was introduced a more luxurious version of this chronograph, the reference 3990 and was Patek’s first Grand Complication to be adorned with diamonds. Based on the perpetual calendar chronograph Ref 3970, this reference featured a bezel set with 44 baguette-cut diamonds and diamond-set hour indexes on the dial. Available until 2005 (when it was replaced by the reference 5971) was produced in yellow, white, and pink gold as well as platinum and is believed that only about 250 of the reference 3990 was made in its twenty-year history. The present example is an exquisite yellow-gold version with black diamonds dial that has hardly appeared in the public market: it is indeed a special request from the Patek’s retailer Hausmann in Rome with this incredible dial, as confirmed on the document that comes with the watch. Preserved in remarkable conditions, the black dial has 10 diamond indexes that recalls the 44 baguette-cut diamonds weighing 2.77 karats of the bezel, making it absolutely stunning at every glance. Offered with the original certificate by Patek, this watch is the non-plus ultra in terms of preciousness and elegance.