175 Patek Philippe Extremely Rare and Important, Openface World Time Pocket Watch in Pink Gold, With Extract From the Archives, Reference 605

Estimate: €60,000 –⁠ 120,000

Model: Pocket Watch World Time
Reference: 605
Case Material: Pink Gold
Year: 1964
Movement: Manual
Caliber: 17''170 HU
Case N°: 2622963
Movement N°: 931112
Dimensions: 44.5 mm
Signed: Dial, Movement and Case
Accessories: Extract from the Archives
Literature: A similar watch was sold at Sotheby's “The Nevadian Collector” Auction Hong Kong, 25th April 2022 as lot 2005 for 321,000 USD

Patek Philippe’s association with Louis Cottier started in 1936 when he designed the groundbreaking ref. 605 HU pocket watch. Initially conceived as a pre-production model for Walser, Wald & Co., Patek Philippe’s agent in Argentina, this inaugural World Time pocket watch was delivered on November 13, 1937, and currently graces the esteemed Patek Philippe Museum. Between 1937 and 1964, Cottier crafted approximately a hundred ref. 605 HU (Heures Universelles) pocket watches. During this period, around 68 were fashioned in yellow gold, and a mere 26 were created in pink gold (with only 15 known), rendering these examples exceptionally rare. Despite being one of the most captivating and innovative timepieces of its era, this reference faced initial lukewarm reception, evidenced by negative sales trends. However, as time elapsed, this remarkable watch earned the respect and importance it rightfully deserves. In its early stages, dials were available in silver, champagne, or pink. It wasn’t until the mid-1940s that the first examples with cloisonné enamel inner dials emerged as an alternative, featuring various world map decorations based on the retailer’s location. Despite the intricacies involved in crafting these enameled dials, specimens without a cloisonné center dial represent some of the most valuable options for collectors. For this reason, the 605 HU presented here becomes highly appealing, boasting the extremely rare pink gold case and silvered dial, a combination cherished by collectors. The 44.5 mm case with snap-on back is remarkably well-preserved, considering its manufacturing date in 1964, marking this watch as one of the last ever produced. The silvered dial features applied pink gold dot indexes and Roman quarter-hour numerals, an outer Arabic dark and light revolving chapter ring for day and night hours, and the world time chapter ring. This chapter ring bears the names of locations around the world and revolves with the bezel in accordance with the Louis Cottier world time patent. Further rarity of the present watch are the original pink hands with its iconic shape. Accompanied by the Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives, confirming the production of the present watch in 1964 and its subsequent sale on 27 May 1966.