249 Audemars Piguet Highly Rare and Extremely Well Preserved, Royal Oak, Automatic Wristwatch in White-gold, Diamond-Set Dial, Reference 5402BC, With Box

Estimate: €70,000 –⁠ 140,000

Model: Royal Oak
Reference: 5402BC
Case Material: White Gold
Bracelet Material: White Gold
Year: 1980
Movement: Automatic
Caliber: 2121
Case N°: N° 55, B22972
Movement N°: 197120
Dimensions: 39 mm
Signed: Dial, Movement and Case
Accessories: Box and Cloth

Launched in 1972 based on the visionary design of Gerald Genta, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak stands as a defining piece of 20th-century watchmaking. Born during the quartz crisis, the Royal Oak was initially met with skepticism due to its high price for a steel watch, leading many to fear it might spell the end for the company. Contrary to those concerns, in the years it became a cornerstone of Audemars Piguet’s success, evolving into a flagship model for the brand. The Royal Oak was groundbreaking as the first luxury watch crafted from steel with an integrated bracelet. In a bid to offer a more opulent yet sporty alternative, Audemars Piguet introduced a gold variant. The reference 5402 BC, like the one featured here, is among the rarest of these early gold models, with only 149 believed to have been produced. This limited production makes it one of the most exclusive versions of the original 5402. The gold variant of the Royal Oak is notable for its substantial weight and luxurious feel, contrasting sharply with the steel model. This particular piece is exceptional in its preservation, with both the bracelet and clasp in superb condition. The case, measuring 39 mm, and the iconic octagonal bezel are intact, maintaining their original proportions. The black dial boasts a guilloché mini-“tapisserie” pattern, a texture resembling small cobblestones that characterizes early Royal Oak dials. It remains in excellent condition, with a pleasing principle of tropicalization effect. The dial is further enhanced with applied diamond hour markers and the AP logo at 12 o’clock, with a date window positioned at 3 o’clock. The case back retains the original, crisp engraving of case number 55, highlighting the watch’s rarity and quality. Presented in superb overall condition and one of the rarest Royal Oak manufactured, the present lot is a rare opportunity for collectors of luxury sports watches.