53 Audemars Piguet Extremely Rare and Very Important, Jump Hour, Wristwatch in White Gold, Retailed by Cartier, With 14kt Cartier New York Bracelet

Estimate: €30,000 –⁠ 60,000

Model: Jump Hour
Case Material: White Gold
Bracelet Material: 14kt White Gold
Year: 1928
Movement: Manual
Case N°: 38617
Movement N°: 38617
Dimensions: 24 × 39 mm
Signed: Dial, Movement and Case

Jump-hour watches first captured the public’s attention in the late 1920s and early 1930s, reflecting the era’s focus on minimalist design and functional elegance amidst economic challenges. During the Art Deco period, brands like Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin crafted exquisite models that blended timeless sophistication with the innovative jump-hour complication. Although they faded from prominence during the Great Depression and World War II, their revival in the early 1990s renewed their status as icons of mechanical artistry. The jump-hour mechanism, replacing the traditional hour hand with a rotating disc, provides a unique and captivating way to tell time, making precise jumps as the minute hand completes its cycle. This exceptional example from Audemars Piguet, specially personalized for Cartier, stands out as a true horological treasure. Its white gold case and strikingly original design, featuring curved, mobile lugs, evoke both the geometric grace of Art Deco and the refined allure of contemporary elegance. Verified records from both Maisons confirm that this watch was sold in 1928 by Audemars Piguet to Metric Watch, a renowned distributor with a rich history of offering top-tier brands such as Cartier and Audemars Piguet to its discerning clientele in the United States. Throughout its history, the Metric Watch company has been associated with the distribution of high-end watch brands, including Audemars Piguet and Cartier. As a distributor, Metric Watch have offered a selection of these brands to its customers, thus contributing to the spread of prestigious watches in the U.S. market and the present one is perhaps the most important watch ever sold by Metric Watch. Powered by a manually wound caliber movement, signed by Audemars Piguet, it also boasts Cartier’s bespoke personalization on the dial, making it an exceptionally rare and desirable collector's piece. Notably, this model is one of the very few, if not the only, examples featuring the Cartier signature on the dial, enhancing its exclusivity. Its remarkable beauty is further emphasized by the presence of white gold Breguet numerals. The Cartier serial number is engraved beneath the movable lug, and the watch is paired with a 14kt white gold mesh bracelet, engraved with the initials "C+B," a mark of its origin from Corbett & Bertolone, a celebrated New York supplier known for crafting bracelets for elite brands such as Tiffany and Cartier. This double-signed, historically significant timepiece is a rare gem—a likely contender for the rarest jump-hour watch ever made. Its pristine condition, paired with its unique configuration, makes it a coveted addition to any serious collector's trove, encapsulating the grandeur of a bygone era while offering an enduring statement of luxury and mechanical brilliance.