181 Rolex An incredibly well-preserved, one of the rarest and historically most important, Barilotto, wristwatch in steel, with black gilt dial pulsometer scale, and radium numerals, reference 3525.

Estimate: € 200,000 –⁠ 400,000

The Rolex “Prisoner of War” Barilotto reference 3525 is one of watchmaking’s most historically significant timepieces. Famous for Rolex’s WWII humanitarian initiative, it was supplied to British officers in German POW camps on a trust-based system, with payment due only after release. Beyond its history, the 3525 was Rolex’s first chronograph with an Oyster case, featuring a screw-down case back and crown, a major innovation at the time. While all 3525s are significant, some stand out for their exceptional rarity and desirability. The present watch is undoubtedly one of the most exclusive, visually striking, and best-preserved specimens of this celebrated chronograph to surface in recent years. Produced in 1941, this particular piece belongs to the first series, distinguishable by the reference and serial numbers being engraved on the outer case back, rather than between the lugs as seen in later iterations. The dial is a true marvel, featuring a mesmerizing black lacquer finish with radium numbers exuding an undeniable vintage charm. What makes this watch possibly the most important, is its exceptionally rare pulsation scale, replacing the standard dual telemeter and tachymeter scales typically found on this reference. This ultra-rare configuration is believed to be the only known example of its kind at the moment, elevating its status as a holy grail for serious collectors. Furthermore, its also presents the incredibly rare configuration with radium numbers and hands. The case remains in outstanding condition, with sharp edges and original proportions—rare for vintage watches often overpolished. Since its auction debut in 2006 at the iconic Mondani sale, it has captivated Rolex collectors worldwide. Its exceptional auction performance cemented its status as one of the finest Rolex chronographs ever made. This reference 3525 is among the rarest and most important Barilotto models, a true masterpiece of horology, embodying both history and excellence.