145 Lip An extremely well preserved, attractive and very rare, Fancy Lugs, wristwatch in yellow gold, with blue lacquered dial made for Hermes.

Estimate: € 8,000 –⁠ 16,000

A 20% import VAT is due on the final price including premium, only if it is delivered within the EU.

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ModelFancy Lugs
Case MaterialYellow gold
Bracelet MaterialLeather strap
YearCirca 1950s
MovementManual, cal. T-18, 17 jewels
Case N°5
Dimensions24mm width and 41mm length
SignedCase, dial and movement
AccessoriesAccompained by Lip fitted presentation box signed Hermes

LIP, a cornerstone of French watchmaking, has long been revered for its technical creativity and bold designs. Established in 1867 by Emmanuel Lipmann in Besançon, the brand has consistently pushed the boundaries of horology, earning a reputation for innovation and precision. Throughout the 20th century, LIP became synonymous with avant-garde aesthetics and groundbreaking advancements, producing timepieces that remain highly collectible today. The present example is a particularly captivating creation from this storied manufacture, boasting an unconventional case design that sets it apart. The articulated lugs give the watch an architectural quality, enhancing both its visual impact and wearability. Beyond its striking case, the most remarkable feature of this watch is undoubtedly its blue lacquered enamel dial. Enamel dials are widely regarded as some of the most challenging to produce, requiring meticulous craftsmanship and technical expertise, particularly in the early 20th century. The uniform intensity of the enamel’s rich hue is a testament to the exceptional skill involved in its creation. The watch also comes with a LIP box signed Hermes, making clear that this very watch was, with all the probabilities, made for them and personalized for the French luxury brand. Presented in exceptional condition, with well-preserved engravings on the case back further attesting to its authenticity, this LIP watch represents a rare opportunity to acquire a masterpiece of French horology.

Condition Report

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Auction Preview GENEVA
Eternity Gallery Geneva
31 March – 2 April, from 10 AM to 7 PM

DUBAI
Opera Gallery Dubai
9 – 11 April, from 10 AM to 8 PM

MONACO
Hôtel Méridien Beach Plaza
24 April, from 11 AM to 8 PM
25 April, from 10:30 AM to 8 PM
26 April, from 10 AM to 12:30 PM
27 April, from 10 AM to 12:30 PM
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